The Pant I Wore To Oscar De La Renta

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Note to self: Wear lighter colors or stand in brighter areas when taking photos.

I made a pair of pants just for the Oscar De La Renta Spring 2014 show.

My inspiration: Oscar De La Renta and Spanish influence

THE PROCESS

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Pattern # V7881 from voguepatterns.mccall.com

I chose a pattern from the Claire Schaeffer’s Custom Couture Collection – V7881 – from Voguepattern.com. She published an excellent book called “Couture Sewing Techniques”, which I used ALL the time while at Parsons and after. I highly recommend this book. When I discovered that Vogue Pattern collaborated with her, I was all over it. Sure enough, the pant fit beautifully.

I chose a pattern one size smaller in the waist and hip area so that I could grade up. If you aren’t too sure how to go up a size, I recommend getting the pattern a size bigger. During your muslin fitting, you can reduce it in the areas you need.

I went to Mood Fabric on 37th Street and found a charcoal colored wool fabric from Giorgio Armani. Originally, I wanted to make a pair of kelly green pants, but decided against it. I felt I would wear darker colors more often than a bold green. I also found the Carolina Herrera lace from Mood.

I followed the instructions exactly how they were written. It’s important to trace every part of the pattern, whether if it’s thread tracing or chalk. I used thread tracing 99% of the time and chalk 1%. Though it was tedious, it was worth it. For sure.

The only difference is that I added lace to the sides before I sewed up the inseams of the pant. I hand sewed it because I don’t have an applique machine. I also used hook & eyes for closure instead of buttons.

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Et voila! You have yourself a bespoke pair of pants! Finishing the insides wasn’t said in the pattern instructions. I suggest bias binding or add lining.

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I wore them with a Zara one pocket shirt with epaulets, a Zara necklace, and vintage Oscar De La Renta heels that my sweet Paul surprised me with.

Tomorrow, I’ll have more about the show itself. Stay tuned! xoxo

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7.23 : Shirt

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That’s me and Paul, my boyfriend. We’re waiting for the show to begin, the first of many tools to promote the record that he produced – Red Hot+FELA. It was AWESOME and I am so proud of him. The very first song began and the crowd went crazy. Security couldn’t control the audience that night. To top it all off, I finished the shirt I custom made for him, just in time for his birthday -7/23. He wore it during the show and it makes my heart melt to know that he loves it.

Originally, I was going to make a boyfriend shirt, something for me to steal from his closet. During the process, I realized that his style just isn’t the same as mine, so I customized the shirt to him. After all, I wanted to give him a special birthday present, and it wouldn’t have been cool if I made it to suit my style. Don’t get me wrong, I love his style, but it’s for him.

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All the details were carefully chosen, from the fabric to the buttons to the thread color.

Parts

I briefly explained the process in my previous post, when I thought that there was no way I would complete the shirt by his birthday. Clearly, I became obsessive and finished it. I also couldn’t have done it without the help of Jonathan Embroidery, one of the only places in the NY Garment District that makes buttonholes.

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Here, Paul is introducing the show. Photo on the right was taken by David Andrako

I used a Kwik Sew Pattern, #3883 as the foundation. Aside from changing the fabric, I altered the pattern a little by adding a navy panel to the pocket.  For the rest of the pocket, I had cut it on bias, and did the same for the back yoke. I also didn’t top stitch the entire collar and the cuffs, as the instructions say to do. I didn’t find it necessary and felt it took away the sharpness of the shirt. The inside was finished with french seams and bias binding with contrasting fabric at the armholes.

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Photo Credit: David Andrako

Can you find Paul in this photo?

Best. Show. Ever.

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NEXT PROJECT: It’s going to be a surprise because I don’t know even know!! All I know  is that it will have clean lines  with details and intricate craftsmanship. I’m taking it back to my roots, yo. 

In the meantime, I just found out about Bloglovin’ . I’m a little behind in time. I would absolutely love it if you added Patterned After to your stream, but hey, I’m not complaining. I am happy that you’re here reading it and thank you! 

Stay tuned and see you very soon x

Summertime Rolls

The past month, I’ve been making a Boyfriend Shirt.  It’s just…it’s hard to not be outdoors, on the beach, or listening to music….

I really wanted to have the shirt by July 23rd, my boyfriend’s birthday. Ain’t happening. I had this whole thing planned. I was hoping he would wear it on the day of a music concert he is putting together for a record he produced….which, by the way, if you’re in New York on July 24th, there’s a FREE outdoor concert called Red Hot + FELA, in honor of Fela Kuti, a human rights activist, and pioneer of Afrobeat.  I am so excited and proud of him, but he won’t be wearing the shirt that night, unless he wants sleeveless and no buttons.

I can show you the process so far:

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I measured him, according to the Kwik Sew pattern (#3883) I found online. I did a very quick sketch so I could have something to work off of.

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I gave him swatches to choose from

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He chose two from the swatches, and the navy came later

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I manipulated the pattern a little and then made the muslin from it. I then did a fitting on him. The sleeves were too short so I extended it. This is also where Paul (my BF) said “Hey, wouldn’t it be cool to make the top part of the pocket navy” ? I said, “Okay”.

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So far, here it is with no buttons, collar or sleeves.

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I also went to look for buttons and got navy ones but now I think maybe white. What do you think? Please excuse my chipped nail polish.

I am actually lugging my sewing machine all the way to New Jersey this weekend so I can go to the beach AND sew. If it’s a productive weekend (on the sewing) then I can post it next week. If not, then the following.

In the meantime, I named this post “Summertime Rolls” because I thought of that song by Jane’s Addiction. That whole Summer thing I’m going through… then it lead me to think about “Summertime” by Scarlett Johansson. Who do you think her song was modeled after (or patterned after!…okay, I’m being a nerd) – I’ve got it right here in the playlist below. ENJOY.

Behind The Scenes Photoshoot – Cocktail Dress: Renna

Video credit: My boyfriend, Paul

I had so much fun doing this photoshoot for the cocktail dress I made for my first Patterned After post. It was shot by Chris Dinerman in an East Village Apartment.

So it wasn’t a high tech studio and I still like to pretend I am a model.

I enjoy the small things in life

Still working on that jumpsuit and will post shortly. Hint: It’s blue and silky.

Chloe: Eyelet Top

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I made this top awhile ago, and I thought I’d show it while I am in the midst of designing a jumpsuit.

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I used the camisole pattern from Kwik Sew. The pattern was on bias, but I changed mine to a straight grain.

I added a seam to the back and did a lace up. I just felt like doing a lace up.

I wear this with basic pieces, and I think it would also look great with jean shorts. Summertime fun on the beach.

Blazer: Uni Qlo (last season)

Jeans: Uni Qlo (worn in skinny jeans, but I tell ya, they last)

Shoes: Marc Jacobs (2 years old but I seriously love them)

Top: I don’t have instructions on how to make this because it was before I started this blog. Still a great idea in that you can change a bias camisole into a straight grain, lace camisole.

So Summer-y

 

A New York Moment

Photographer shooting the photographer - Le Boyfriend

Photo by Paul

It was a cold and rainy day in May yesterday but I had a great session with Chris Dinerman a.k.a Le Photographer.  Stay tuned for my first post of the DYO dress I made! Keep in touch through the “Patterned After” Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or right here on this blog. xo