Katazome Dyeing

A Finished Textiles Katazome

Student work drying on the line – except for the first one on the left. That’s our teacher’s- it’s really pretty.

I took a an intensive weekend long workshop on Katazome at the Textile Arts Center. It’s a Japanese method of dyeing fabrics using a resist paste applied through a stencil (as defined in the Wikipedia). You can see traditional patterns online, but in our class, we used it to create designs of our own. Masters of this art took a lifetime to learn this technique. I personally want to be able to use it to create my own textile designs, and to apply it into my clothing that I make.

B Making Paste Katazome

Making the paste

C Adding the Paste Katazome

Our teacher, Sara Peterman is demonstrating on how to apply the paste to the fabric, using her own textile design

D Sarah textile katazome

Sara is showing us the results of the dye

E Students Working Katazome

Students working on their own textile designs

F After the Paste Katazome

The far left is the one I made. We are waiting for the paste to dry on our fabric before applying the dye.

I like this way of screenprinting. The paste consists of natural ingredients that are accessible (rice bran, rice flour, etc), and the tools are easy to find. I can do all of this at home. The only rare commodity is the paper for the stenciling but I found it!!

Sometimes doing something creative releases creativity. It opened up a portal in my soul, so I am constantly thinking about new designs.

G My final work

Drying my designs

I’m inspired to design from scratch, so the blog posts will more than likely be split up in sections. I will show you the dyeing, the patternmaking, and the sewing (and posts on different subjects in between 🙂 )

It’s going to take awhile, but I know that it’s going to be a great Spring 2014. I can feel it!

Stay tuned xoxo

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Shout Out Sunday: Oscar De La Renta

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It’s amazing to see Anna Wintour, Mario Testino, Grace Coddington and Hamish Bowles sitting together in one place. The room exuded fashion powerhouses from every square inch of the room. Anna Dello Russo walked in with a gorgeous ODLR gown, but unfortunately, my photo didn’t take well. Aerin Lauder sat diagonal from us in front, and Barbara Walters made her point to say hello to the legendary designer.

As promised , in my previous post of the pants I designed, I said I would show more photos of the September 10th show, which happened during New York Fashion Week.

I thought the Spring 2014 collection is very ODLR, and it is absolutely gorgeous. That’s all I have to say, really. I am sure you can see the rest in WWD or Style.Com.

Born in the Dominican Republic, this 81 year old Couturier has made his mark in the world. I really hope to see many more of his beautiful creations. He’s one of the originals and no one can ever take his place.

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A lot of dresses had the high/low hem  (not shown here), which is one of the inspirations for my very first design for Patterned After. That post  was also an homage to Oscar De La Renta.

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I  seized the moment and had Paul take this photo! I will never forget this show.

Fashion Week Rocks.

I am in a workshop learning about Katazome resist dyeing this weekend. Hope to share the experience soon! xoxo

The Pant I Wore To Oscar De La Renta

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Note to self: Wear lighter colors or stand in brighter areas when taking photos.

I made a pair of pants just for the Oscar De La Renta Spring 2014 show.

My inspiration: Oscar De La Renta and Spanish influence

THE PROCESS

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Pattern # V7881 from voguepatterns.mccall.com

I chose a pattern from the Claire Schaeffer’s Custom Couture Collection – V7881 – from Voguepattern.com. She published an excellent book called “Couture Sewing Techniques”, which I used ALL the time while at Parsons and after. I highly recommend this book. When I discovered that Vogue Pattern collaborated with her, I was all over it. Sure enough, the pant fit beautifully.

I chose a pattern one size smaller in the waist and hip area so that I could grade up. If you aren’t too sure how to go up a size, I recommend getting the pattern a size bigger. During your muslin fitting, you can reduce it in the areas you need.

I went to Mood Fabric on 37th Street and found a charcoal colored wool fabric from Giorgio Armani. Originally, I wanted to make a pair of kelly green pants, but decided against it. I felt I would wear darker colors more often than a bold green. I also found the Carolina Herrera lace from Mood.

I followed the instructions exactly how they were written. It’s important to trace every part of the pattern, whether if it’s thread tracing or chalk. I used thread tracing 99% of the time and chalk 1%. Though it was tedious, it was worth it. For sure.

The only difference is that I added lace to the sides before I sewed up the inseams of the pant. I hand sewed it because I don’t have an applique machine. I also used hook & eyes for closure instead of buttons.

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Et voila! You have yourself a bespoke pair of pants! Finishing the insides wasn’t said in the pattern instructions. I suggest bias binding or add lining.

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I wore them with a Zara one pocket shirt with epaulets, a Zara necklace, and vintage Oscar De La Renta heels that my sweet Paul surprised me with.

Tomorrow, I’ll have more about the show itself. Stay tuned! xoxo