As mentioned in previous posts, I am developing a made-to-order womenswear line which will be launching this Spring. This collection is a collaboration of talent. I’ve sourced a few amazing and creative independent textile designers, and will be infusing their prints into my designs. The line will begin with a set of skirts, and I’ve started the process by making basic patterns. These photos are essentially an outline of the skirt sloper.
I started by drafting the skirt onto pattern paper . I had a calculator and measuring tape on hand for all the measurements.
Once it was drafted, I cut it out and made a 2nd draft with seam allowance
I walked the 2nd draft along the seam allowance. This means that I used a pencil, and matched up the seam allowance of the two seams that are to be sewn. It’s as if I’m sewing the paper. This gives me opportunity to fix the seams if needed.
I notched certain parts of the pattern. For example, the side seam to indicate a 1/2″ seam allowance. Also, the ends of the darts so that I can match the two legs together. I also ended up tracing the seam allowance and darts with tracing paper and wheel.
I cut out the muslin using the 2nd draft. By the way, 2 lb dumb bells is my ghetto way of keeping weight on paper. There are heavy weights that cutters use, which can be bought at a sewing supply store. I saw them once at an art store too. Dumb bells really isn’t as effective as the weights cutters use, but I also pinned the paper to the muslin. I added The Sartorialist book to keep myself entertained as I continue to stare at dotted pattern paper
After I cut out the muslin, I pinned the skirt pieces together and fit the skirt. By this time I wanted to drink from staring at patterns for hours. Instead, I accessorized the muslin skirt with a sweater that I knitted awhile back and a scarf my friend Leslie weaved. It makes patternmaking more fun Besides, the important part is that the skirt is balanced, and it has excellent fit, which I am happy to say that it does! Thank goodness, or else I would be pulling out that bottle of wine.
Once the fit is perfected, then it is complete. I cut off the seam allowance on the 2nd draft, then copied it over to manila paper so now I have a basic skirt sloper.
I’ve got a lot to do, but a lot to look forward to, so stay tuned. I look forward to sharing the beginning to the end with you.